Showing posts with label climate change. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climate change. Show all posts

Tuesday, 18 February 2025

Return December?

[This post was originally published in Forty South Tasmania, Issue 115, Summer 2025. I wrote it before the summer of 2024/25, but reproduce it here in response to the terrible wildfires that have ravaged Tasmania's West Coast for much of February 2025. I am deeply saddened that this is happening, and is likely to keep happening in future summers. One reality of climate change as we will experience it in Tasmania, will be the devastation of some of our irreplaceable fire-sensitive species.]


[A hazard reduction burn in nearby bushland]

Among Elvis Presley’s many gifts, the articulation of lyrics wasn’t foremost. That at least was my excuse for miss-hearing the title of his 1962 hit “Return To Sender”. I was sure he was singing “Return December”. And why wouldn’t anyone long for the return of the first month of summer, with its long days of sun, sand, cricket and, of course, Christmas? Back in my childhood it seemed impossible to be downbeat about summer. I gleefully anticipated the return of December.
 
How things have changed! Lately, I’ll confess, I’m close to dreading summer. It’s as though the very thing I’ve longed for has turned on me, like a beloved dog that suddenly bites. The source of much of this angst is bushfires. While summers in southern Tasmania have always come with the threat of bushfires, climate change has magnified that threat. Compared with late 20th century figures, Hobart can expect to nearly double its number of hot days (maximums >30 °C) by the mid-21st century. That’s an increase from 4 or 5 days per year to 8 days per year. At the same time our rainfall average is declining. 
 
Such conditions greatly increase the risk of lightning strike without rain, a phenomenon  more commonly associated with the drier, hotter parts of mainland Australia. Lightning has always been in Tasmania’s weather mix, but usually within rain-producing storms. Rain might continue to come with storms, but in warmer and drier conditions it will often evaporate before it reaches the ground. And lightning on dry bush is a recipe for disaster.



[Lightning strike photographed by me during a visit to Hokkaido, Japan]
This risk is not just a hypothetical future projection. Quite abruptly, since the year 2000, Tasmania has seen a sharp rise in the number of fires ignited by dry lightning. And these fires last longer and burn larger areas. Last century long-burn fires caused by lightning strike were a rarity. Now Tasmania has experienced such fires most summers so far this century.  

The summer bushfires of 2018/2019 serve as a startling example. They began in late December 2018, when dry lightning strikes ignited several fires in the Tasmanian highlands. Thousands more dry strikes occurred on January 16 and 29. I watched an animated simulation of the lightning storms as they crossed from north-west to south-east. It was as though a vast and merciless dragon was swooping and swerving across our island, breathing deadly fire, now to the left, now to the right. The fires continued burning for weeks, and by early February 2019, they had burnt around 200,000 ha, almost 3% of Tasmania.

 

Back in The Patch our local bushland - we watched anxiously as one particular fire, the Gell River fire in the south-west wilderness, grew into a monster. As it roared down the Vale of Rasselas, a vast smoke plume spread eastward, piling high into the sky behind Kunanyi/Mt Wellington. An eerily murky pall settled over the city of Hobart for days. Nobody could breathe easy in any sense. It was a potent reminder that, for better or worse, the patch of bush we live beside is connected to the wild.



[A "cool' burn in our local bushland]

All day long we had the radio on, listening for updates, wondering if the fires would reach Hobart. We hastily worked out our fire plan, with southern Tasmania’s disastrous 1967 fires firmly in mind. That calamity claimed 64 lives, including some in our neighbourhood. If fire struck here again our plan was simple: get out early. Twice that summer we packed overnight bags and precious items. We photographed parts of the house interior, in case we’d need to remember what was replaceable. The irreplaceable would be just that.
 
We’re not the only ones threatened by fire. Looking at The Patch, I wonder how its other inhabitants can respond to a severe fire. How might they “get out early”? And even if a bushfire doesn’t come, how will the trend to hotter and drier effect the plants and animals here? 



[Where would an echidna find refuge in a wildfire?]

Of course all of this change to our climate doesn’t mean we’ll suddenly have uniformly hot, dry summers. We will continue to enjoy the endearingly changeable summer weather we’ve come to expect, including the occasional December snow on Kunanyi. But weather is not climate. Climate refers to changes over longer periods of time, and looks at trends in our weather. And it’s the trend to hotter, drier, and more volatile that is most worrisome. I ask myself whether this is a situation I want to leave to my grandchildren’s generation?
 
In that context my own maternal grandmother comes to mind. She was a wonderful, somewhat eccentric presence throughout my childhood. One of her quirks was a morbid fear of thunderstorms. When lightning flashed and thunder rumbled, she would quickly take herself off to her room. And there she would hide in a dark wardrobe, sitting on a chair she had in there for just that purpose, hoping the sturm und drang would be muffled by her frocks and coats. 
 
I could never understand her phobia, as I found a “good thunderstorm” quite exhilarating. But all these years later, and for entirely different reasons, I seem to be inheriting my grandmother’s feelings about thunder and lightning. I won’t be heading for the wardrobe, but I certainly wish I could parcel up a coming storm, and label it “Return to Sender”. 

Monday, 23 December 2019

The Tour du Mont Blanc 10: Encore?

If the other guests in Hôtel du Buet’s dining room had been wanting a quiet night, they were in for a disappointment. The magnum of lovely French wine that Julie shared with us may not have helped. But it was our last night together, and speeches, toasts, and thank yous were a pleasurable necessity. We especially wanted to thank our guide Julie and our leader Keith for their hard work.


[A defiant Joan: ready to go] 
Despite the revelry we were in surprisingly good form at our very early breakfast. This final day was forecast to be sunny and warm, and given that it would be a long day, starting with a strenuous climb, we were keen to get the hardest part done in the cool of morning. As we entered the Réserve des Aiguilles Rouges, it was in deep shadow, though beyond we could see the sun already shining on the snowy peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif

And then the climb began. Despite the shade and the cool air, we were very soon sweating. We’d done steep before, but this climb towards the Aiguille Rouges felt a notch steeper. Near one bluff it was too acute for standard switchbacks, and ladder-like steps had been cut into the slope.


[Ascending the steps. (photo by Ian Grant)] 
One good thing about steep is that you gain altitude quickly, even if you don't rejoice about that at the time. We were more keen to rehydrate, now that the sun had added external warmth to our own internal combustion. 


 [Liz and Ian have a break on the ascent]
But eventually, after a climb of more than 1,000m, we reached the Grand Balcon Sud. Here the track began to level out, and we were rewarded with extraordinary views across to the shining Glacier d’Argentiere, the sharp Aiguille Verte and much of the vast massif beyond.

And now we wandered more easily. For the next 4-5 hours our views across the valley were a roll-call of the glaciers, peaks and deep valleys that make this one of the very greatest walks in the world. On our own side of the valley we had the red peaks of the aptly named Aiguille Rouges, and a series of beautiful small lakes nestled beneath them. We climbed a little further so we could walk around Les Chèserys, a set of exquisite cirque lakes.


[Les Cheserys mirroring the Aiguille Rouges] 
This grand scenery was complemented by the more humble beauties of rocks and mosses and wildflowers, and at one point an almost luminescent green emperor moth caterpillar. At one drink stop a couple of ibex walked by, seemingly unconcerned by the gasping and noisy scrabbling for cameras this induced. We’d mostly seen these lovely creatures at a distance. As with marmots, they seemed tokens of a wildlife that has largely withdrawn to places less travelled by humans.


 [An emperor moth caterpillar]


[An ibex on the Grand Balcon Sud] 
Seeing this wild creature now, I start to ponder how far from true wilderness the Alps are. Yes they are wild and spectacular, savage even. But they're also hemmed in, nibbled at, and changed by human activity, including our own walking. Add skiing, climbing, farming, housing, hydro development, parapenting, gliding, mountain biking, gondolas, cafes, and much more, and the mountains don’t seem to have much privacy.


[Looking across to the shrinking Mer de Glace] 
And then there’s climate change. Even in the six years since my first visit here, the glaciers have retreated noticeably. These are the kinds of changes that are supposed to happen at, well, a glacial pace. Right now they are galloping. On such a sublime day, in such a wonderful place, I feel incredibly privileged. But I also feel sobered to think how radically altered it will be for future generations.


[Feeling privileged to be near Mont Blanc] 
We’re all sobered by a more quotidian TMB challenge: yet another long and slow descent. We had earlier talked about finishing the last day with a chair-lift ride from Le Brevent direct into Chamonix. But Julie has told us this is closed for maintenance, so our only option is to use the engine of our own honest legs. We just hope we have enough fuel for that effort!


[Mike starts the long descent] 
And of course we do. We descend from the heights of La Flegere through thick forest, seemingly forever, towards the town of Les Tines. We finally come to the valley floor at the adventure playground of Les Praz de Chamonix, where children are running, and riding and yelling: sights and sounds designed to bring us back to earth. The rest of the walk does that too, being mostly a road walk through the suburban streets and lanes of Chamonix.


[Road walking on the outskirts of Chamonix] 
It should be an anticlimax, but really, how can anyone feel let down by any of this? We are at the end of an epic walk, having covered more than 170km over 10 days in one of the most beautiful mountain ranges on earth. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed each others’ company; have shared moments of joy and pain and fun, and everything in between.


[Moments to savour!] 
Tomorrow the UTMB, an ultra marathon around the Tour du Mont Blanc, will commence. Banners, stalls, runners and spectators are everywhere, and we have to jostle our way among them down the lane beside the Arve River that leads to town. We pass a couple of numbered runners. I look across at my brother, and almost say to him "Encore?" Almost.


[Entering Chamonix alongside the Arve]
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